Hello guys, I have this topic regarding my super RS+ running v. 31.7.
I haven’t played much with configurations at this point. I have been following Emlid’s recommendations so far. My problem I think, has been the temperatures we are getting around here, fluctuations from 30 to 40 Celsius, something like that.
I have noticed that my base works fine at 1hz and has not shut down once with these temperatures. On the other side, the rover (at 5 Hz), works for a few minutes before shutting down. Then I let it cool down and restart it, having the same results a few minutes later.
When I am staking out, I can tell when the equipment is due to shut down, because it starts to lag. That helps me to prepare for what comes next.
Is there a way to keep track of internal GNSS temps? If I change my rover from 5 Hz to 1 Hz, would I be able to work fine collecting points or staking out? Is this an equipment flaw? Is it too hot here?
Thank you for your response, Tim. I was going through a post you made way back figuring out the 1 Hz to 5 Hz benefits on rover/base combinations.
Yes, I thought that moving the rover faster than usual (staking out technique), was causing faster shutdowns.
I am guessing you have upgraded the RS+, yet I am curious to know if you staked points or collected points having 1 Hz in the RS+ rover. And if you did, what can I expect? Do you have any tips? should I make unhurried movements? Time wise?
I will try and play with the equipment and see what I can find. I have noticed that the Emlid RS+ tends to overheat, as per comments I have found on the web. Despite that, I will try and find a solution for my needs.
The rover can be set faster if you really need it but if you are only doing walking single-point stakeout rather than capture and/or auto-collect or it’s vehicle mounted then it’s not going to matter that much. We PPK drones at 1Hz and a rover on the ground is rarely going faster than that. Like mentioned though running a faster speed and the fact that it is being moved makes a difference.
Have you tried swapping the units to make sure it’s not something hardware related?
I will swap my units next. I have swapped them a few months back. I heard that helps with battery life spans, but I will reverse them for this experiment.
I went to a site today and I encountered problems, again. The base worked fine but the rover.
I just found the temp display while downloading raw files. Although it doesn’t show on the app, I must do it through the IP address. It would have been nice to know this feature earlier today.
I just learned that I can get 10 Hz with different constellation configurations, although I am now very proficient with this activity, I will try to play with them.
Is there a relation related to my rover shutting down, regarding my app displaying half battery charge, even though it’s full because I know I charged them all night?
Nowadays, my rover which was my base shows half battery, while my base which was my rover is almost full. I remember it was the same before swapping them over. Would this be a safety issue with the system and shutting my rover due to battery protection, or it’s the heat?
Thank you Tim for your suggestions as well. I can´t seem to have enough great advice from all of you, thank you for being here and creating this community.
See what Emlid says and if they can help. Maybe email them the serial numbers etc to support@emlid.com to get a head start.
IT MAY VERY WELL BE JUST THERMAL PROTECTION.
Batteries don’t last forever… just another reason I hope future model has hot-swappable battery(s).
I do not suggest doing this below until EVERY option is exhausted and absolute last resort with no other choice if you must. Good to know in case you need to though. Careful, must use PROPER 3.2 VOLTAGE, nothing higher or you fry it:
Please send us a Full System report from both the base and the rover and photos of your setup. If you can generate a report right after the shutdown and share the timestamp, it will also help us. We will look into it.
I just wanted to note that if you experience the same issue, feel free to write to us at support@emlid.com. We will look into it. We don’t recommend taking apart the Reach device, as it voids the IP67 and makes It more susceptible to dust and water damage. Also, changing internal parts of the unit can be tricky as it requires additional knowledge and may influence its accuracy.
I am writing to share an observation that I believe could improve your product’s performance, especially for users in hotter climates like mine in Africa. Many owners, including myself, have experienced overheating issues with the device.
While I appreciate the support team’s suggestion to use the device under shade due to high temperatures, I believe a more sustainable solution could be implemented. It would be beneficial for you to consider manufacturing and offering a heat sink as an accessory on your website. This would provide an effective way for users in high-temperature areas to enhance their device’s performance without compromising its operation.
Offering such upgrades is a common practice among many well-known companies, and it would certainly add value for those of us facing these challenges.
agree… but in those conditions it is going to be hotter than hell anyways, especially for a closed weather proof device with only a very small vent hole.
The heat sink along with thermal compound i would assume help more so than not. Especially since Emlid no longer sells the RS/RS+ units. GOtta do what ya gotta do sometimes. It isn’t 70 deg F San Diego weather everywhere.
The newer RS2/+/3 has built in thermal heat sink through the metal 5/8" thread mount.
Obviously an internal fan would drain battery power and also make it impossible to maintain IP67 specs etc.
Unfortunately if there’s no vent or internal fan a heatsink isn’t going to do anything after the first 15 minutes. It will just heat up like everything else and more than likely produce additional heat on other internal components. If only there were some kind of hat for a receiver…
Actually I have thought about white or reflective tape on the outside or a secondary shell offset from the main housing that would mitigate direct sunlight. It would help but I think it’s just the older tech that doesn’t stand a chance with how hot it gets now.
