Slow and steady?

  • I don’t really like zippy batteries, because one of them once got puffy and another one had a lose wire
  • Maybe you also want to try out a better power board: http://www.mauch-electronic.com/50a-100a-200a-hall-sensor
  • I think it might get problematic to get a good performance with a 4S battery and a 490 kV motor

Hmm…

If I change it to 6S in eCalc, I get “max. power over the limit of the motor.”…

Nice power module! Bookmarking :slight_smile: I’m ordering everything from one place for now.

AT.

Just found a thread on another forum that states that 4S is good choice for this motor…

Sure it may get over the power limit of the motor, but just under high load conditions.
However, the copter should hover at 30-60% load and full throttle conditions a rather rare.
If the copter is already with a 4S battery on the limit, you may buy a bigger motor.

Yeah… this motor is listed at 680 Max Surge Watts. So it should hold up.
Also recalculating for the 390Kv motor. Getting better flight time. And it’s cheaper. Tho it’s only 16 poles.

Want to order everything on the weekend so I can get to building on the next weekend.

Thanks for the advice. Please do not hesitate to give more of it :slight_smile:

AT.

ZIPPY Flightmax 8000mAh 6S1P 30C
HK Pilot Power VI Module, Distribution Board And Dual UBEC ALL-In-One (120A and 10s)
Afro ESC 30Amp OPTO Multi-rotor Motor Speed Controller (SimonK Firmware)
Turnigy Multistar 4830-480Kv 22Pole Multi-Rotor Outrunner

Better?

AT.

I think this could work

Ordered this configuration. Hope it works! :slight_smile:

Thanks for your help.

AT.

Hmm…

They’re out of the 35C 8000mAh batteries… Would 10C/20C 10000mAh batteries work for this project you think? Motors draw 22A/31A. This should leave about 12A for other electronics for “normal” operation and have about 76A left at max. eCalc seems to OK it. Am I correct?

AT.

I think the 10C lipo will make it as well.

Another dumb question… Looking at the videos for mounting motors on this frame I see a guy unsoldering the motor wires from the ESC. I like the idea but… is this only for some special ECSs without heatshrink or did he just remove the heatshrink from the ESC?

AT.

Yup 3d hubs is awesome! I also recommend an old school way of just picking up the phone and calling a few of your top local universities or colleges. Most of them have a 3d printer now and if it’s a personal project, they can even assign an engineering student to help you out. I think they get extra credits (At least it’s one of the options for them. Depends on the School though . . .). Some places even carry like a decent Ultimaker 2 or if you are really lucky, a Form 2 printer.